I cannot express how grateful I am to have had the opportunity to live in a place like Egypt for the past 6 months. I feel in many ways that I lucked out living in Alexandria, or rather, how fortuitous to have come to such a welcoming city. Behind the dirt and trash that I have often complained about, is one of the true jewels of the world; a city rich in history, contemporary politics and culture, and varied in its tapestry of personalities, intellectual pursuits and artistic enterprise.
For all the rumors over the years that Egypt is in a state of upheaval, the country and its people have evidenced both courage and humanity in resolving their affairs. I hear from many Egyptians a bit of hesitancy and embarrassment at the state of affairs, especially a revolution/post-revolution Egypt. I cannot say enough how the perceived instability was not seen by me, my family or my colleagues as a hindrance in any way. I found Egyptians to be more than gracious. I always felt safe and comfortable asking for help, seeking guidance and directions, or even clarification about a political or religious matter. I felt even more warmth from my colleagues who always made an effort to reach out to me and to take the time to ask me for my opinion. Most times I would defer, realizing that commenting on Egypt, its politics and religion, are not my place. But no, I was not shocked by what I saw, and no, I was not eager to get home.
My wonderful colleagues: Sylvia, Rania, Lamia and Dalia
I loved the protests, and the heckling I received from time to time for being a foreigner. When confronted by Egyptians, many just wanted to know more about me and to voice their opinions. They, like all people around the world, wanted an ear. How many times did I wonder how it would be received when asked where I was from I would proudly, but hesitantly, announce “Amrikeya.” I would then hear stories from the taxi driver who has a brother and a cousin, one in Detroit, the other in New Jersey. The connection with the US is very widespread.
I was impressed when I would ask a question of an Egyptian and, not producing an answer would reply, “Wait here. My brother will know.” Every Egyptian knows someone who knows someone who can get whatever it is you want. All I had to do was ask. Who would figure that Egypt, its rich tapestry of language, would be the place to help me find my voice! The Egyptians call this Hameda, knowing a Mohamed or Ahmed who can get things done. And contrary to what some Egyptians might say, the Egyptians always get things done. Just find a Hameda, he can do it for you.
A “Hameda” in a spice shop in Alexandria
Egypt is a place that never sleeps. That moniker does not belong to New York or Paris, but to Cairo and Alexandria. Everyone is always working. Even the muezzin, arranges the call to prayer from the loudspeaker at 3:45 in the morning. I will miss the comforting call to prayer that for so long I cursed as I rolled over, throwing the pillow over my head.
A few of the things I won’t miss is the presence of X-Ray scanners everywhere. Every day as I entered the library, I found new ways of sneaking around the scanner as I waited for my bag to go through the conveyor belt. Every mall I visited, every hotel and every government building (just about all of them), all used these obnoxious, and likely toxic, scanners.
X-Ray Scanners in the Library
The scanner inside the staff entrance
Coming to Egypt I was never worried about the upheaval or the protests. I was more worried about the cigarette smoke. We worried about seat belts in taxis and getting diarrhea from eating food—the quality and hygiene of which was somewhat suspect—more than we did anything else.
I was surprised by the amount of trash everywhere, and by the trash burning on the side of the road. Breathing in the burning plastic and the other fumes is definitely not good for general health. Where seeing a fire on the train tracks in the US would warrant a shutdown of the line and an announcement on the news, here the tram speeds up and runs over the fire.
It is the intimacy and the humanity of Egypt that I will miss the most. For all of the talk about Egypt being in a state of upheaval, I have seen and heard of little violence compared to cities in the US. I was always amazed at how many would give up their seat for another on the tram; how many strangers would run to help another in distress. There is generally much caring and good will, even if an Egyptian’s time is fluid. I can’t tell you how many times a homeless man came up to offer me a bite of his remaining sandwich and waved goodbye to me as I politely declined.
Inside the crowded Tram
I gave many lectures that originally scheduled for 1:00 might not begin until 1:25. I gave a talk last Thursday evening at 6:00 PM that did not begin until 6:43 PM! When a store sign says the store will open at 11:00 AM, it usually means “see you after the noon prayer.” It is confusing trying to figure out where to be at one time. This could be the time that being punctual actually matters, and oftentimes it does matter. Thank you, Egypt, for teaching me patience. I have slowed down to listen to the chatter of the city and learned, like water, to flow with the tide.
I will miss the baker who, every time I showed up at his shop, smiled and proceeded to dole out half a kilo of date bars.
A few date bars left
The man on the tram knows that every morning at just past 8:00 AM I am headed to the library. And the Imam who always greeted me as I came home from work. He reminded me almost weekly that I was always welcome, and if I needed an ear, he was just around the corner. Thank you, Mohammed. And to Gaber, our bawwab (porter) for our apartment building who greeted me as I walked by in English, “Hey, Mister! It good?” It is good, Gaber. Thanks for your help with the leaky water heater, the two broken toilets, the cockroaches in our bathroom and the electricity on one wall in our kitchen that never worked. Thank you especially to the Fulbright office in Dokki for being like family here in Egypt; you made the stay in Egypt as smooth and welcoming as possible.
Gaber with the Kids
I have no doubt that Egypt will persevere through the political uncertainty that dominates the conversation at every corner. While every Egyptian is worried about the future, it is clear that because they are worried about it, everything will be just fine. There is always a good mix of past and present in Egypt. I pray for Egypt to continue to keep looking forward, to balance their faith with the direction toward the future. Egypt, a mothering land to us all, rings with a majesty and nobility that is unearthed in ancient lands, and forever set in the fortune of the stars. Carry on! Ya hamakum allah! Enshoufek bah’adain, habibi!
Just about all foods from around the world can be found in Egypt. Cairo is more worldly in its selection, especially for restaurants. While we don’t have too many problems finding foods, it is the flavor of local resources that makes us more selective than usual. There is an abundance of Middle Eastern restaurants here (obviously), most of them local Egyptian cuisine. We have found a few restaurants we really enjoy like Abu Awad, Mohammed Ahmed and Gad to name a few. When you find what works, you stick with it.
Mohamed Ahmed
The fixed menu at Mohamed Ahmed restaurant
The family has its ups and downs with Egyptian food. Like every food, it comes with a mood. Oftentimes we are in the mood for a particular dish. We have all found things here we absolutely love eating, and some foods the family has not quite agreed upon. One of our favorite dishes, one everyone loves to eat, is a dish called Kosheree. Kosheree is a dish made with lentils and small pasta. I believe it has its origins in Northern Africa and among the Jews of Algeria and Egypt. It is a real comfort food, and like every Egyptian dish, comes with its regional variations. There is a restaurant near us that, in my opinion, makes the best kosheree. They make a version which puts chicken shawarma on top. Angelique likes a version of seafood kosheree that is available across town. They combine shrimp and calamari with the pasta and fried onions. I am not a fan of the seafood kosheree, and I don’t like the pasta that comes with the seafood kosheree; it’s a bit wet and sloppy. Pasta is something that in certain contexts is done really well. There are a variety of pasta salads that are exceptional in Egypt. Kosheree is among those exceptional tasting pasta dishes.
Kosheree – pasta dish
We enjoy eating falafels. The falafels here are made with fava beans, called tameya, and while they are not bad, the variation in taste makes for some real hit or miss falafel eating. Some of them are made with fennel seed, which adds an interesting flavor. Others have a sesame seed on them with a variation in spices. The trouble with falafel is that they are fried in a vat of oil that, in some cases, does not get changed very often. Consequently, the falafel can taste extremely greasy and heavy. As a friend noted, Egypt is full of a sense of false economy. There is the idea that while much of what can be found in Egypt is cheap, some things are just not worth it. Some Egyptian food is ridiculously cheap. A falafel sandwich, for example, is one (1) pound (about $.16), but there are only so many falafel sandwiches one can handle in the course of a week. It’s like eating a balogna sandwich. While I am not exactly homesick for food, I have learned to appreciate the variety of foods in the US.
We often get whole or mashed fava beans, the latter called ful, which are popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We also get hummus mixed with tahina or vinegar, and sometimes we just get whole chickpeas seasoned for eating. We have ordered boiled eggs wrapped in falafel and seasoned, stewed tomatoes. One of the interesting points about eating the local cuisine is that in almost all cases, the order is accompanied ith table garnishes, or salatas (table salad) that consists of pickled carrots and cucumbers, though they taste nothing like pickles int he US. Apparently the pickled cucumbers and carrots are made with a mixture of lemon, salt and shattah, a brine that gives the vegetables a spicy taste. Some of the pickled selections are so spicy it gives an instant case of heartburn! It is also common to get a tomato, cucumber salad that is great for mixing with tahina and falafel in the pita bread.
Falafel and mezza
Abu Awad
Cleanliness is somewhat of a problem here in Egypt. I have mentioned before that salads and vegetables are something that should be eaten with caution. Apparently, the soil bacteria can cause intestinal discomfort, to put it mildly. The whole family has had its share of intestinal discomfort. It is also an issue to make sure those who serve you have clean hands, or have taken precautions to not contaminate the food. Just recently I was at a restaurant where the server discarded his cigarette out the door and grabbed my plate of food, pushing the food back onto the plate as it began to slide. I had a similar problem with a pizza maker recently who was taking money from customers while rolling dough. He stopped to take a cigarette break and continued to make the dough for the pizza. Two days ago Angelique went to the bathroom at one restaurant and saw four (4) cockroaches climbing up the wall. When she returned she saw a cockroach climbing up the wall behind me. I almost lost the kosheree I was eating! Seeing insects and pests in a restaurant can be common anywhere in the world but it taints the gastronomical pleasure of the local flare when you feel that options are already a little limited. Needless to say, we seek out the clean and reputable restaurants when we can.
It is typical at restaurants for servers to bring out a basket of pita bread, refilling it as needed. In the past few weeks, there seems to be a trend to bring the bread out in wrapped plastic bags. It was assumed that we, and the next party, would get the uneaten bread as part of their basket, germs and all. Now, we assume, the next party is getting untouched bread, but who knows. The signs are encouraging.
Felfela – Restaurant near Tahrir Square
Another dish we enjoy is Shakshouka (شكشوكة), a dish made of scrambled eggs, tomato, chili peppers, onion and cumin. Shakshouka also has its regional variations. While some recipes call for a poached egg, the recipe we enjoy scrambles the eggs. It is also said to be a popular breakfast dish, though we usually eat it for dinner at a local restaurant. When we go out for traditional Egyptian meals, the food is usually served with table garnishes, such as pickled carrots, beets and hot peppers. We always have to decide if the garnishes are worth eating. We have built a bit of a resistance to different soil bacteria, but vegetables that are unwashed can still give us stomach aches, or a few days of malaise. Some vegetables are also treated with pesticides despite the misperception here that everything is organic. Every meal is also served with an unlimited offering of a pita style bread made available cheap and fresh on the streets. We usually take a dish like shakshouka and stuff it in our pita bread with falafel, pickled beets (touched with garlic), some potato salad and hummus, tahina and baba ganoush. We also enjoy ordering moussaka, a dish of Greek origin that consists of fried eggplant. It is always surprising for us when we order a plate of falafels, an order of shakshouka, two orders of kosheree, hummus, tahini and baba ganoush and receive a bill for a whopping 24EGP ($3.60).
Shakshouka from Mohammed Ahmed
Falafel and Seasoned Beet Root at Mohammed Ahmed
Inside a local restaurant
A nice lunch spread – rice, hummus, tahina, bread and salad
Although it is not Egyptian in origin, I enjoy eating chicken shawarmas. They have their roots in Syria and Turkey, and I have eaten them with much delight in Saudi Arabia. There is a meat or chicken spit from which the chicken is sliced off the spit into bread. The shawarma is usually served on a pita wrap with juices, french fries to sop up the chicken juice, and other garnishes, such as mayonnaise and sweet peppers. The Egyptian version is served on a hoagie roll, often with fried onions. This is a quick meal that, though we do not eat it often, is a nice change from the every day choices. One of my favorite places to get shawarmas is Sultan Ayub, pictured below.
Coffee Shop next to Sultan Ayub (Shawarma Shop)
A chicken shawarma from Sultan Ayub
Chicken is something that is fresh in Egypt. There are many chicken shops that will kill the chicken for you. You can even watch as they boil it to get the feathers off! I took the kids down to an area of Alexandria that has a very rich fruit and vegetable street market. Just before we turn the corner toward the market is a row of butcher shops with meats and carcasses hanging in the storefront. There are also stores selling live chickens, pigeons, turkeys and rabbits. Of course, I had to tell my kids that we were not passing a pet store! They were fascinated by the selection. Pigeon is a staple on the Egyptian menu, considered something of a delight that, without regret, I have not tried.
Butcher shop in Alexandria
Not a pet store – in Alexandria
Pigeons for sale
Chickens for sale
Angelique and the kids have enjoyed getting fresh fish when out and about. I mentioned in an earlier post that because of the close proximity to the Mediterranean and a rich tradition of fishing in the region, fresh fish is sold everywhere and makes its way, like pigeon, onto every menu. While trotting around the street markets, there is a real fresh variety of every type of fish, but it is advisable to beware. Some of the fish that is put out is not stored properly and can really smell horrid. On the other hand, I have been through street markets where the fish is still flopping ever so slightly. That is fresh fish!
Fish stand in Alex
One of the fun points about living in Alexandria is the mix of the old and the new. There are still donkey carts that travel the streets with the freshest produce. They use a microphone or bullhorn to shout out what they are selling and for how much. Egypt is amazingly self-sufficient when it comes to produce. They produce their own bananas, oranges, garlic, watermelons, potatoes – you name it. Recently the donkey carts have been calling out the prices of fresh garlic and watermelon. Since there are many high rise apartments in Alexandria, people will shout out in return from their windows that they want a half kilo of garlic, for example. The cart will pull up to the side of the apartment while a woman drops her bucket out the window (attached to a rope) with the necessary money for the purchase. The man on the donkey cart will then drop in some garlic or potatoes and be done with the sale. I can’t imagine a donkey cart hauling goods around Boston calling to all the shops, apartments and passersby. It is convenient if you need produce but don’t want to leave the house!
A Vegetable Cart
Fruit Stand in Alexandria
It is also common to see men pushing carts all over the city selling various goods. One might be pushing gooseberries, while others are selling beans or nuts for purchase and roadside eating. One of my favorites are the guys who push what looks like an oil tank from a New England home selling cooked sweet potatoes. The guy usually carries wood with him and feeds his black machine while the sweet potatoes slowly cook throughout the day. While the consumption of roadside food in some cases is not advised, the family will indulge in the sweet potatoes – and boy are they as succulent in taste as they are delightful in smell!
Selling Beans
Selling corn on the street
Gooseberry vendor
Because of the fresh fruit that is available around Egypt, I have really enjoyed the fresh juices at stands. I have not patronized the juice stands enough. I absolutely love getting fresh mango and/or guava juice. The Egyptians also make a great Lemon juice that is refreshing after a day in the sun. If I stop at a juice stand I usually order the mango, banana, carrot and pineapple drink. I ask for just one carrot to replenish my craving for the orange delight. Recently I tried a mango, strawberry, banana, coconut drink, while the kids got a watermelon and vanilla drink. Some of the juice stands will make a crushed oreo milkshake. The bill usually comes to about EGP 6 (or about $.95), or less.
Meka Juice Stand in Alexandria
Inside Mecca Juice in Smouha, Alexandria
Vegetable Stand Near the Tram
Fruit stand in Alexandria
Vegetable stand in Alex
Olives in Alexandria
Take a tour of the Souk near Ibrahimeya
It took me a while to get used to the pizza in Egypt. Pizza in Egypt rarely has tomato sauce on it despite the abundance of tomatoes on the street and in stores. Pizza makers then serve pizza with packets of Heinz ketchup. They do have a dough called fatir, a filo dough that gives the pizza (fatir pizza) a nice, sweet taste, mixed in with any vegetable we can think of. The fatir pizza is wonderful. It has the flaky dough wrapped under and over the toppings for a filo calzone type appearance. The meat is somewhat strange since where we would introduce pork (pepperoni, for example), the Egyptians have a beef alternative. The beef just tastes different since it comes from a regional cow on, what I have been told, the Sinai. It is also the case that Egyptians dress beef to a taste and consistency approximating pork. While in Egypt we have avoided eating beef for the most part, and have ordered only vegetables on our pizza. I do not suspect anything is wrong with the meat. On the contrary, because the chicken and beef is butchered locally, I have heard it is really fresh and wonderful. Even though we try to avoid the beef, we do order it on our pizza on occasion or when ordering a macaroni casserole. We order stuffed grape leaves that is made (stuffed) with either beef or lamb, and it is terrific.
Fatir pizza at a bakery in Alexandria
Fatir pizza at a bakery in Alexandria
Fatir pizza at Dahab Restaurant
Fatir pizza at Dahab Restaurant
We have had some trouble finding good cheese in Egypt. Even when we get mozzarella cheese for the pizza, it has a goat cheese bitterness to it. Though cheese can stay good forever exposed to the warm temperatures, it was initially hard for me to go into a store to buy the cheese that is sliced and stored on the shelf. It took us a while to get used to buying the eggs on the warm shelf, too, though they are fresh and delicious.
Eggs for sale in Alexandria
Some friends and colleagues have raved about some of the cheeses in Egypt, and I believe there is some great cheeses to be had. We order a great fried cheese and fried cheese sandwiches in restaurants. Most of the cheese we eat is imported from Europe. Sometimes a creamy Egyptian cheese, حلوم ḥallūm, made of goat and sheep milk is sold on the corner of the street. It is not bad, but It is hard to want to buy it when it is sitting in the 80 degree sun. These points are just part of the cultural assimilation that takes some getting used to.
With the regional adaptation, we have willingly adopted the eating of the local fare, enjoying the ubiquity of lentil soup, for example, that is made to a delightful thickness and mixed with just the right equilibrium of spices. Dipped with a regional flavor of stuffed grape leaves, called werak einab, Dolma, or dolmades when ordering at the Greek Club, or محشي (maḥshi, ‘stuffed’) on the streets (a more standard/traditional Arabic name for them) of Alex. Some of the local grape leaves are stuffed with vegetables rather than the rice and beef or lamb from Syria and Lebanon. Mixed with a bit of pita bread, dipped in tahina, it is to die for.
Fatir at a bakery
The fatir, as mentioned above, is a wonderful replacement for the pancake breakfast or as a nice side for a dessert, topped with ground coconut and freshly made jams. Fatir, like many of the other breads of Egypt, is a staple of the Egyptian diet. Much of the pita bread is sold on the side of the road and looks similar to what we can get in an American market. It is, however, puffed when it comes fresh out of the old fire oven. Sometimes I am on the tram and as we approach a stop, the Egyptian pita bread is lined along the wall for sale. Some men and women will jump off, leave a pound or two, and get back on the tram with an arm-full of pita bread. It smells wonderful and tastes just as good, dipped in tahina, mixed with salad (cucumber and tomato mix), or with a little bit of mayonnaise and garlic. The only problem (if it is a problem) is that the fresh pita bread must be eaten quickly.
Carrying Bread Next to the Tram
Bread on wall seen from the Tram
It will get hard and chewy, tasting more like remains from the 2011 revolutionary campout. Here is an interesting, albeit dated, article on flatbread.
The trouble, of course, is that other than pita bread, no bread here is decent. I should really say, there is no variety to the offerings in the states. There is only a couple of companies that makes a toast like bread, one, for example, called Rich Cake, which doesn’t even taste like the bland white bread of any given supermarket chain. Otherwise, there are just a few roll options at the local bakery or a bigger supermarket. So while bread is an important part of the Egyptian diet, it is a diet of a limited variety.
Man carrying bread from the bakery
Bread in Alex
Bread in Alex
Bread in Alex
It is also a problem to watch that the water does not come from the tap. What makes it difficult is that Egyptians have worked up a tolerance for things that would easily wipe me out. Even my Egyptian colleagues on occasion are wiped out by the food. I gave a lecture last week. Afterwards a colleague came up to me to apologize for not getting in touch sooner since he ate some bad food and had to go to the hospital to have his stomach pumped.
There is the problem that there are a lot of greasy type foods in Egypt, even the kosheree is a bit greasy. The problem for me is that I keep thinking I have been here long enough, I will go ahead and order that salad. I am, however, disappointed to learn a day later that I have not yet worked up a tolerance for the surprise bacteria in the food or the water. If even the slightest bit off in body creates a problem for eating some types of food. If queasy, forget the greasy falafel. Sometimes I order coffee while out, and I am certain that the water used to make the coffee was not made with bottled water, or that the cup was not thoroughly cleaned. I made this mistake in the middle of the desert, in Wadi El Rayan. After hiking around the hot desert, I ordered a turkish coffee at the one shop that was a three hour ride into the desert and almost instantly regretted it.
On the other hand, some of the coffee can be remarkable. Because of the close proximity to Italy, the Egyptians are masters of espresso and lattes. The only real trouble is that in Egypt the milk is long-life, or shelf milk. Part of the reason for this is that transportation services for food s unreliable, especially cold items that need to keep cold in a hot Egypt. This means that fresh milk is hard to come by. When the milk is added to a cappuccino, it tastes a little off. This is to the detriment of the family’s breakfast cereal. The kids don’t seem to be bothered by the milk, but I am. Fortunately, though, I do not order milk in my coffee. I have always had it black. There is no real American style coffee, but instead an espresso or Turkish coffee. What comes close to American coffee is the constant offering in cafes and restaurants for Nescafe instant coffee. It is not very good, though I am of the mind of my undergraduate Philosophy Professor who said there are two types of coffee: good and better.
If not specific about what you want, the waiters will bring out a Turkish coffee, which is stronger than an espresso, but delicious. It took me two offerings of Turkish coffee to realize that I need not drink the heavy sludge caked at the bottom:)
Brazilian Coffee Shop Near the Bibliotheca
When traveling the train back and forth between Alexandria and Cairo (on average once every two weeks), I get a glimpse of the traditions of Egyptian life, and taste for the Egyptian sweet tooth. One candy I have tried a couple of times, called mushabek, is like a candy version of fried dough, the dough we get at carnivals in the US. Mushabek is made of sugar, flour and lots of honey, and it comes in a package that looks like a big yellow honeycomb wheel of sticky candy. Just break it off by hand and commence eating.
Mushabek
One point about traveling the train is the food carts that are pushed through each car. Part of the culture of Egypt is a love of coffee and tea. There is a coffee/tea runner on every street who brings drinks to the vendors or construction workers. It is a nice treat to order a tea or coffee while on the train, accepting a drink as part of the cultural ambiance. It is at various stops such as Tanta, an hour outside of Cairo, that the candy peddlers enter the train to sell their sweets. I hated Mushabek at first, but at the insistence of one of my colleagues, I have really learned to enjoy it.
Selling of snacks and candy at train and tram stops is a widespread phenomenon in Egypt. The selection is limited mostly to snack foods, but the sale of soda and water is reasonably priced and readily available. I have enjoyed hopping off the tram, or stopping into my local corner store (available at every corner) on the walk home from the tram for some milk or ground coffee.
Selling nuts
Finally, I will never really get used to the idea of having to purchase bottled water. Twice in my stay I have gone to a coffee shop for coffee and been told that there was a problem with getting water. The country depends on constant shipments of Nestle, Dasani or Baraka brand bottled water (among other local brands), which we buy in three gallon jugs or 12 X 1.5 Liter bottles in a box. Either way, we have to make sure our supply is adequate because the tap is not an option. I am looking forward to sinking my teeth into a big, juicy cheeseburger and getting a huge garden salad without worrying about getting sick (except for mad cow, but that’s for another post).
Snack Shop at the Roushdy Tram Stop
Spice market in Alexandria
Corner store in Alexandria
Right now mango and watermelon are in season, and I can hear the man on the donkey cart calling me to lower my bucket and take the offering, before I am gone and miss the offerings of Alexandria and Egypt altogether. I am here to eat up what I can.
Below are a few pictures taken while traveling and walking around parts of Egypt. This is the second installment of pictures that represent some colorful aspects of life in Egypt. Some of the pictures are just funny. I also enjoy writing a few notes to accompany the pictures since every picture tells a story. I had fun taking most of these pictures, even if they are not exactly masterpieces. I hope you enjoy them.
Alexandria
We have eaten at the Greek Club as a family a couple of times, but I have been there on a number of different occasions with fellow Fulbrighters. We usually get mezzas, appetizers, such as stuffed grape leaves, hummus, tahina, pita bread, mashed feta cheese and tomato. What we really like about the Greek Club is its view of Alexandria from the tip of the Corniche. The Greek Club’s proximity to Fort Qaitbey overlooking the Mediterranean makes for a spectacular view of the city, the ocean and the beloved Bibliotheca. Many friends always rave about the fresh fish at the Greek Club.
Alexandria from the Greek Club
This is a view of the Corniche near our flat. The Corniche gets rather busy during the weekend with locals fishing, swimming and eating. One boy came up to me while I was waiting for the sun to set and started talking to me in Arabic. A whole chorus of beach workers joined him in asking about my life. The boy asked me to take his picture. I was struck by how bold he was in coming out of the water to chat with me, a stranger, while I was trying to take in the scene.
On the Corniche, Alexandria
I love seeing the food sellers on the Corniche. They sell ice cream, corn and sweet potatoes. They always leave you alone when walking by and generally seem pretty pleasant. The smells from the food carts really enliven the walk and the atmosphere of the Corniche.
Bean seller on the Corniche, Alexandria
Of course, what would a walk be without advertisements for the two remaining presidential candidates, facing off in the June 16 and June 17 run-off election. The figures are giving birth to skeptics and a contentious and divisive era in the life of Egypt’s young democracy.
Muslim Brotherhood Candidate, Mohamed Morsee
Presidential Candidate, Ahmed Shafiq
Alexandria really is a jewel of the mediterranean in so many ways. It is easy to find something new by just walking around. The C.F. Cavafy House, celebrating and commemorating the famous Greek poet, is not easy to find. With a little leg muscle and some guidance from the locals, I finally managed to find it. It proved to be a treat, documenting another sweet piece of Alexandria’s history and cultural identity. It is oh so rich and diverse.
Entrance to Cavafy House
Inside C.F. Cavafy House
I have an Egyptian friend who has spoken with the small Jewish community in Alexandria. What was once a vibrant, lively and flourishing population has dwindled to a depressingly low number. The Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue is a spectacular building that is closed, gated and guarded. I know of only a couple of Egyptians who have seen the inside.
Eliyahu Hanavi Synagogue in Alexandria
After visiting the Cavafy House and the Synagogue, the family made its way to a Brazilian coffee house, famed for its strong, no non-sense coffee (like the Brazilian national soccer team!) I especially like the “reflective” picture I got from the outside, with words of wisdom abut coffee that I embrace. I love the colorful mosaic taken on the inside, indicative of the colorful Brazilian personality that was reflected in our coffee and the atmosphere.
Brazilian Coffee Shop in Mahatat Raml, Alexandria
Inside the Brazilian Coffee Shop in Alexandria
I cannot easily forget my trip to a colleague’s foundry in Borg al-Arab, just outside of Alexandria proper. Of course the smells and the colors of that hot day are evident in the pouring of the hot bronze, ready for “molding”.
Pouring bronze at the Alexandria Foundry
Our Egyptian friend, Amira, took us to an old area of Alexandria called Mansheya. There are a lot of souks, shops, where goods can be purchased for cheap. Locals go to Mansheya for everything from cosmetics and clothes to stationary. Amira took us through some old narrow streets to the silver shops, where she knows the owners of a couple of the shops. She helped us negotiate some incredible prices on some silver pendants and chains. At the end of the transaction, Mohamed, the jeweler in the picture below, sighed, and said “I am glad this is over. When it comes to bargaining, he [pointing at me] is worse than an Egyptian.” I began to laugh, at which point Angelique explained that that is not necessarily a compliment. I took it to be a great compliment! So did Amira.
Entrance to the old, narrow shopping streets
These narrow streets, by the way, are called Zanqett as-setatt (زَنْقِة السِتَات), roughly translated means, the narrow woman’s street. The streets were originally designed as a street for women to shop.
Inside the old courtyard in Mansheya
I love the medieval feel of the interior of the apartment courtyard. The interior even has a medieval Europe feel to it, but looks down and in on the shops and alley ways. Amira, our friend, was explaining that in the 19th century, these streets were the source of a string of serial killings conducted by two women, Raya and Sakina.
Amira and Mohamed at the jeweler
Read all about my visit with Dr. Ismail Serageldin, Chief Director of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, HERE. A colleague posted this picture in the library, and the picture has gone viral. Remember, the library employs 3,000 people.
Me and Dr. Serageldin next to the Egyptian flag
Fayoum – Tunis
I took a quick trip with a couple of friends to Fayoum. It was really meant to be a relaxing getaway. The pictures reflect the spirit of relaxation with the flora opposing our Econo Lodge (minimalist lodging that seemed to commune with the natural surroundings). Our lodgings led to a sleepy village in one direction, and to a large, salty lake in the other direction. Eventually we made our way to the desert, hiring a driver in a four wheel drive SUV to take us nearly four (4) hours into the desert. We enjoyed the open window drive, the roughness of the terrain and the hike around preserved parts of the desert to showcase remaining whale bones.
A visit to Fayoum (Tunis) South of Cairo
A boat in Fayoum
I’m a real sucker for the colorful painting and writing on the boats around all parts of Egypt. It speaks to a once vibrant fishing community in places like Alexandria and Port Said.
A boat in Fayoum
The village had a lot of pottery shops (famous for its clay). This one was a school with a store and an adjacent courtyard.
Pottery school store in Fayoum
We stopped by one pottery studio of Mohammed Mohamed where we were invited to take pictures and film him throwing pots. We ended up purchasing a couple of pots from him, though we were not pressured to do so, which was a nice change of pace for us.
Fayoum was particularly buggy and we had to watch for mosquitos. Hence the mosquito nets attached to the top of the beds. The beds were futon style mattresses thrown on top of the stone shelves designed for lodgers.
Close Quarters in Fayoum
I am always fascinated by the presence of a water fall, especially in the middle of the desert. This is part of the fascination of Egypt – there is always something amazing lurking behind the next trip.
Wadi El Rayan (Water Fall) Fayoum
St. Antony’s Monastery
I really appreciated Father Maximus’ patience and knowledge, of art, books, building, cooking – everything. He defines the meaning of a Renaissance man. I am eager to see if he, as rumored, will become the next Coptic Pope.
Father Maximus at St. Antony’s Monastery
The picture of Christ in mandorla is interesting for its presence on a fourth century Church. I was admiring the colors that were recently preserved to their original luster.
Christ in Majesty – St. Antony’s Monastery, Ain al Sukhna
I love the integration of Islamic design with the practicality of a mill located in a Coptic Christian Monastery.
Fatimid design on a mill at St. Antony’s Monastery
Bells at St. Antony’s Monastery
Pyramids (Giza)
We made our pilgrimage to the great Pyramids of Giza with the kids. It was fascinating to see how massive the structures are, and to behold their intention as a tomb for the Pharaohs. I was equally impressed at their close proximity to the griminess of Giza, a large, hustling, bustling city that gave little care to the presence of such monuments (tombs) as part of its historical legacy. Coming back from Fayoum, I actually packed into a microbus with fourteen (14) other riders and ended up at the pyramids again. They are ubiquitous to the Cairo landscape.
Pyramid of Khafre, Giza
Of course I was equally impressed by the number of people trying to capitalize on the presence of the pyramids among tourists, such as this guy, who wanted me to pay him for getting his camel to kiss him. Actually, he walked in front of my camera and an argument ensued.
Kissing the camel in front of the Pyramid of Khafre, Giza
Of course, what is a trip and pictures of the Pyramids without a picture of the Sphinx? What Maya calls a Pyramid doggie.
The Sphinx of Giza
Cairo
A hot ride across town to Tahrir Square led us to another, more modern history, filled with as much importance as the death of Khafre. I met friends at Felfela, a typical Egyptian restaurant that is by all accounts pleasant and affordable, though a little pricier than a similar Egyptian restaurant off the beaten path (in Alexandria, for example). The ambience inside is terrific. The menu features a reproduced copy of former President Jimmy Carter’s signature (apparently he ate here).
Felfela restaurant near Tahrir Square
A car accident near Tahrir Square
Right up the street is Tahrir Square, always abuzz with the latest protest and political stumping. I appreciated the graffiti imaging the likeness of Che Guevera and Bashar Al-Assad. The day I stopped by for the two photos below, protestors were calling for Bashar’s ouster. Clearly the Syrian president did not listen, nor did he learn anything from the Egyptian upheaval.
Graffiti in Tahrir Square
Graffiti in Tahrir Square- Bashar al Assad
This graffiti was taken on my way to a concert in honor of the Executive Director of the Fulbright Program who is retiring this month. The concert was held at the old American University in Cairo, just a stone’s throw from Tahrir Square. May 28th, the night of the concert, protestors were challenging the results of the presidential elections. It was quite busy, but the graffiti is really fascinating and in some cases, haunting. A friend who I was walking with suspects some of the faces are projected on the wall in order to commence picturing the enormity and exactness of the design. In any case, they are large, imposing and delightful.
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
I like the Egyptian women dancing to the beat of the Tahrir Square protestors. The second picture makes me wonder, who is giving life to whom? Tahrir Square protesters giving life to Egypt, or Egypt giving life to the protestors?
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
Graffiti around Tahrir Square
I like this picture for its pink contrast. It was done entirely by accident. I was just trying to take a picture of the carcass. I am always dodging the blood from the butcher shops until I unknowingly look up and nearly knock myself out. Here, I hopped off the metro coming from Ramses train station in Cairo and came out right in front of the butcher shop in Dokki (near the Fulbright office). I still can’t tell if this is a pig (likely not), a sheep, or what. What can I say? I’m not good at identifying my carcasses.
Butcher Shop in Dokki, Cairo
The picture below was taken before our political dialogue with students and faculty at Cairo University. The building we are standing in front of is where Obama gave his “salam wa aleikum” speech.
Cairo University
I love the colors of the goods available on any given street in Egypt. These pictures were taken in Islamic Cairo where one can find just about anything. The colors and the streets just come alive with pedestrians. There is an energy and sing-song language of bargaining that is hard to find anywhere else in the world.
I finally met with Dr. Ismail Serageldin, Director in Chief of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, today in his office. It was a surprise visit graciously arranged by the Head Librarian of the Bibliotheca. His office, a spacious retreat on the fifth floor of the Bibliotheca, is filled with books and cozy leather chairs. The fifth floor, by the way, is comprised entirely of Dr. Serageldin’s office and administrative staff.
Me and Dr. Serageldin
Dr. Serageldin spoke easily and knowledgeably of the Mubarek trial, which took place just the previous day. He recalled lessons learned from Europe and the United States in establishing proof of guilt (the burden) and not allowing hysterics precede the facts of a criminal proceeding. He was referencing the hysteria in the street that for the second day is calling for the death of Mubarek and his entourage, but the burden of proof, as Dr. Serageldin pointed out, was not established to exact such a punishment. Besides, the life sentence in prison is satisfying based on the preamble of the judge before the actual court proceedings began at the trial yesterday, explaining the lack of evidence in trying Mubarek. We chatted briefly about the difference between a criminal and civil proceeding, and also discussed the difference between a civil court and a military tribunal.
Dr. Serageldin was natural in communicating his knowledge of world politics and legal procedures, as well as his knowledge of art. There has been talk recently about the importance of documenting the architecture and sculpture of Egypt, Alexandria in particular, and Dr. Seragledin was encouraging me to work on a project that would document the public monuments of Alexandria. We talked briefly about the sculptor Mokhtar, who is a legend in Egypt. I recalled when talking to Ismail an encounter I had with a taxi driver in Cairo about a sculpture we just passed and the driver explained excitedly that that was the venerable Mokhtar. Mokhtar, as it turns out, was a revolutionary of sorts. Most people don’t realize, as Dr. Sergaledin reminded me, that the sculpture by Mokhtar in front of Cairo University of a woman with her right hand bowing in the lap of the Sphinx, shows her left hand removing her veil. Most people do not notice the left hand removing the veil.
This led us into a discussion about Savanorola and the hysterics of the Renaissance. Dr. Sergaledin related the story of Savanarola to the excitement and uncertainty surrounding the current situation in post-revolution Egypt, most recently the protests that are following the trial and sentencing of Hosni Mubarek. Whoever is elected president in the June 16th run-off will be a blip on the radar of history, like Svanarola, who is a footnote to the Renaissance of Michelangelo. As are the persecutors of Galileo. Human truth (Truth) and justice have evolved and persevered in the annals of historical thought.
So the message is that Dr. Seragledin appreciates the ideas that circulate in Egypt and the library itself. He referenced radical right wing parties in the US as not being suppressed as they represent the value of ideas, though rightfully marginalized through the course of education and opposing ideas. So it will be with Egypt (Insh’allah) that the post-revolution path in the country will proceed with the wisdom and counsel of many other countries before it, to seek justice and wisdom as it becomes among the enlightened. Whatever happens with the revolution or the newly elected president, this too shall pass as a blip toward a prevailing of sorts for Egypt.
Me and Dr. Serageldin next to the Egyptian flag
Dr. Serageldin showed me his secret library (a room in the wall behind his desk) and his not so secret library (a conference room outside of his office) which contains specially bound leather editions of his extensive writings. Our meeting took one hour, but it was worth it to hear the embattled director make his case as one of the more enlightened figures in the age of a new Egypt, and among the enlightened elite around the world. We promised that I would come back and conduct further research under his invitation, but that we would meet State-side to continue this dialog, perhaps when things quiet down a little in Egypt. It was a pleasure to meet Dr. Ismail Sergaledin, a giant of the modern world, worthy of his office and worthier still of a place among the revered figures of learning and wisdom in the modern world.
Today marks 21 weeks since we arrived in Egypt. The time has gone by quickly. We are preparing for our departure date of June 9th from Alex to Cairo, where we will spend 10 days before flying home. We are stopping in Paris and Oslo for 3 and 4 days each before going back to Boston; Paris, because we really wanted to see it, and Oslo, because my friend and former roommate from Kiel, Germany lives there. It doesn’t seem to make much sense to travel from Egypt to France to Norway, but it does for us. When we bought our roundtrip tickets last August, we (and by “we” I mean Zach) found a really good deal on Cheap Tickets. We could fly back on Air France, hence stopping in Paris for a few days, and then make a short trip to Oslo before flying back through France en route to Boston. The cost of the tickets would be the same whether we flew to Oslo or not. The last time I was in Oslo was Christmas and New Year’s of 1999/2000. I was a poor college student spending a year studying in Kiel, and couldn’t afford to fly back to the States for a week for the holidays. My roommate, Margrethe, graciously offered for me to take the ferry home to a town about an hour’s drive from Oslo with her for the holidays. I did, and had a wonderful time. She always told me I needed to come back to see the countryside when it was green and sunny, not snow-covered and dark. So now I have the chance to do that. Spending time in Norway after living in Egypt for 6 months will be like detoxing our bodies; the air and noise pollution in the cities of Egypt is extraordinary. I remember being in Norway in December and walking through the icy trails by Margrethe’s house at 3:00 in the afternoon as it started getting dark and breathing in the purest air I have every breathed. The only noise came from my boots crunching the snow. We look forward to being in Oslo and being in the company of a good friend. That’s not to say that I won’t miss Alexandria. Yesterday our friend Nourha took the kids and me to Montaza Gardens. The kids were able to run around and then enjoy a strawberry shake at McDonalds, of all places.
Of course I have learned so much and met so many wonderful people while living in Egypt. I have also gotten to experience living in a city. I no longer notice the horns honking or the people arguing. It might even be too quiet when we return to Marblehead. The kids will miss riding the tram. You can take the tram from almost one end of Alexandria to the other. In that regard, Alexandria is an easy city to traverse. I don’t ever really feel lost.
The kids love riding up top on the double-decker tram. You can get a great view of the city that way. Luke said something last night about coming back to Egypt when he’s grown up. I hope he does. I hope we have instilled a love for traveling and learning about other cultures in the kids. Luke and Maya are lucky in that they have already lived abroad. I feel lucky, too.
Last weekend Fulbrighters took a retreat to Ain al Sukhna. The retreat was more of a conference that allowed us a chance to report on the work we have been performing during our grants, and to reconnect and bond with other Fulbrighters. We began our retreat by visiting St. Antony’s Monastery before heading back to a resort on the Red Sea.
*About Saint Anthony: Born in the Upper Egypt town of Coma near Heracleopolis in the year 251 A.D, St. Antony the Great, when orphaned at the age of 18, became a hermit and thus lived to be 105 years old. It is said that he was tormented his entire life by the flatteries and temptations of the devil. He, along with St. Pachomius, was one of the first exponents of Christian monasticism, which originated in the Egyptian desert. He is buried beneath one of the ancient churches (St. Antony) of the monastery.
St. Antony’s Monastery (Deir Mar Antonios), and its neighbor St. Paul’s, are both Coptic Christian and are the oldest inhabited monasteries in Egypt. Hidden deep in the Red Sea Mountains and relying on springs for their water supply, both still observe rituals that have hardly changed in 16 centuries. For more information about St. Antony’s Monastery, please visit HERE
We met with Father Maximus who, as it turns out, is a Renaissance man of sorts. He holds degrees in art and music, restoration and agriculture. He assists with the many restoration projects underway at the facility, including helping out with the restoration of the wall paintings in the ancient church. Actually, the restoration of the paintings on the walls of the churches is being restored by work between the Supreme Council of Antiquities and The American Research Center in Egypt, but Father Maximus is actively involved in dictating the pace and process of the undertakings. Much of the restoration is needed to remove the soot and dust from candles that burned for centuries inside the Churches. For more on the restoration projects at the monastery, read HERE.
Below are some images from the Monastery.
The wall around the monastery dates back to the 4th century, when the monastery was founded. It was meant as protection and also stressed the ascetic life agreed upon by an Antonian monk.
Entrance to the Monastery (Surrounded by a Fortress Wall)
Arriving at St. Antony’s Monastery
The Monastery has five (5) churches. The Church of the Virgin Mary and the Church of St. Michael are the towers that are seen from all angles of the Monastery.
Navigating the Monastery
Inside the Monastery
View from Above
Another View from Above
Bell Towers
There are several towers around the Monastery, a couple of which are used to hoist wheat and other goods for use inside. One pulley system, located outside the wall of the monastery, is sued for hoisting and dropping food. Father Maximus explained that it is used to feed the bedouins. St. Antony’s Monastery has a long tradition of feeding the Bedouins and supplying them with clean water.
Pulley for Basket of Food
The refectory, or dining hall, is made of a limestone. It is simple in structure, but has one distinct feature. The table has a lip that runs the full length. The lip was designed to prevent crumbs from the dry bread from falling all over the floor. Because of the use of limestone, the refectory stays quite cool in the scorching heat.
The Refectory (Dining Hall)
One of the highlights of the visit was a close-up view of two of the five Churches. We visited the Medieval Church of St. Antony, originally designed in the 4th century, evident by the very small apse and small choir. The Church has two small domes. The domes and walls are covered with frescoes, many of them in fairly good shape thanks to recent restoration. Some of the paintings date to the 7th and 8th centuries (the small paintings of Christ surrounded by the Apostles – not pictured below), but most were done between the 12th and 17th centuries.
Facing the Altar in the 4th C. Church
Detail from a Column
Artwork on the Dome and Wall
Artwork on the Wall of the Church
More Artwork
Writing/Graffiti on the Church Wall
More Artwork
Christ in situ
Another View of the Altar
Another view of Christ in Mandorla
Sanctuary in the Church
There is a passage near the altar of the 4th century church that leads to a more modern Church, a place that has folded chairs, apparently capable of hosting services. The more modern Church, Father Maximus explained, is dated to the 17th century, but I have read that it dates to the 1700s. Perhaps it was a mistranslation of the date. The 4th century Church is remarkable as a historic artifact, and to see how paintings and architecture were added to it over the years. The modern structure, called the Church of the Apostles, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, is not as interesting as the Church of St. Antony. Appropriately, in connection with the earlier dated Church, Father Maximus explained that he and the other monks found an old monks’ quarters buried below the Church of the Apostles. Father Maximus, who has some experience in design architecture and engineering, decided to expose the floors of the 4th century quarters for all to see. He pulled the red rug back with our help, and showcased not just the archaeological remains, but his hands-on know-how. Father Maximus designed the wooden beams that house supporting steel beams, on top of which he laid the glass floors to expose the remains to visitors.
Old Monk Quarters Underground
The pictures are not great but it gives an idea of what is below.
Underground Remains
17th C. Church Wall and Dome
As we were standing near the altar, Father Maximus was holding cymbals. I asked if he would sing for us. He happily agreed, singing a song about Mary. I recorded the whole song, but the footage did not come out well. The voice, however, is pretty clear. It is a nice piece, and a real treat for all in attendance.
The reliquary (a container for relics) is said to house part of the cross from Christ’s crucifixion, albeit it a very small piece.
Reliquary
What makes the Monastery so interesting is that it is entirely self-sufficient. It has a mill, a bakery and a spring. The mill was, and still is, used for pulverizing grain. On the front of the mill is wooden decoration identified as Fatimid decoration. Also interesting is the place of Monastic life within the predominantly Islamic culture of Egypt. It is perhaps not that outlandish, but I am mindful of the relation to Egypt and Islam as I listen to the Friday call to prayer and subsequent Friday sermon being broadcast in the streets as I write this post.
Handiwork (Bells)
Mill in the Monastery
Fatimid Ornamentation on a Mill
The spring is actually located outside the walls of the monastery so that the Bedouins can access it. This is a point reinforced by Father Maximus to express an interest in working with and caring for the Bedouins, a relationship that is continuously cultivated, despite a somewhat troubled history.
Leading to the water spring
Clean Water Flowing into the Monastery
Partial View of the Monastery
The Monastery and Father Maximus gave us lunch of sticky rice and lentil soup with fresh olives and water. I gave a speech thanking Father Maximus for his hospitality and allowing us to share a piece of Egyptian culture and history with the Fulbright program.
One of the places I wanted to see was the library, housed with a rich collection of manuscripts. Father Maximus was pleased that I was inquiring about the library, but he did not offer for me to visit it. He did explain that he is creating a Culturama show, an interactive educational program, with the Bibliotheca Alexandrina exploring Coptic Monastic life.
The Whole Crew Visiting the Monastery
After the tour, the Fulbrighters made their way to a red Sea resort for a conference, listening to the teaching and research we have been conducting over the course of the year/semester. It is these types of trips that are a real treat, giving all of us a chance to see a part of Egyptian history and culture up close, commune with our colleagues, and share in the camaraderie and good will that we came to Egypt to spread.
I have been working with the Bibliotheca since January and I have taken little opportunity to photograph the facility until now. A few weeks ago I took extensive pictures of both the exterior and interior of the library complex. I did not take pictures of the Museum space, which in some ways is a separate facility, though extremely nice. I also did not take a picture of the United Nations collection or the Manuscript Library. I hope to add those pictures in a separate post. The library is a huge facility and has so many moving parts, including the Digital Lab and separate collections. While I love the architecture of the library, I have had a hard time understanding some of the decisions made by the architects. Some of the space, in my opinion, is not utilized well. Even the idea of a building with four (4) floors below ground is strange. The Arts and Multimedia library, for example, is located in Basement 3 (B3), three floors below entrance level. There are no windows and, as you might imagine, Internet access is painfully slow in some areas.
The Mediterranean with the Bibliotheca in the background
Snøhetta, a Norwegian Architectural firm, was awarded the design of the library, which was officially inaugurated in 2002 at a cost of well over $220 million. The library is not that old and quite spectacular in conception and realization.
The idea of the library rising at an angle (16 degrees) was purposely designed to replicate the rising of the sun, a symbolic gesture signaling the library as a center of learning, looking back to the legacy of the Ancient Library of Alexandria. The library (the sun) rises over the city and ordains learning and intellectual pursuit as that which lights all of humanity. The Planetarium, then, is the moon which rotates around the sun.
The library and accompanying structures used to be magnificently lit at night so that the whole orchestrated complex looked like some kind of vast solar system. Because of budgetary constraints, the buildings are no longer lit with the glowing blue light, or any light for that matter, leaving a void on the horizon when looking across the city to the area of the Bibliotheca.
What is not known from the photos, is that the public square, or plaza, located around the front and side of the library gets extremely crowded on any given day. In fact, it is a mob scene everyday I leave work. Many of the students from the University of Alexandria use the Bibliotheca as their university library. This signals a problem of sorts for Egypt, that there is no university or public library system in the country. I wish I could communicate the number of times I wanted to stop at a public library while visiting Cairo to use a computer, read a magazine and relax in front of books and CDs. I am spoiled by the place of the public library in the US.
Below is a series of forty-four (44) pictures of the library, inside and out, with appropriate explanation. Many of my pictures leave something to be desired. Hopefully I can follow-up with another post showing different views and collections of the library. In the meantime, Enjoy!
*By the way, the whole library facility closes daily at 4:30PM. A movement to extend the library hours until 7:00PM was not approved.
The Outside
There is a number of different script and scribble on the side of the stone facade that, while individually meaningless, symbolizes the language from all over the world. You can see some of the script in the semblance of hieroglyphs and Chinese characters and different drawings/markings. The gray granite from Aswan (Upper Egypt) displays the letters (not words) from the alphabets of some 120 languages.
The above ground portion of the Bibliotheca
A detail of the Bibliotheca wall
The pictures also reveal a pedestrian bridge that cuts across (pierces, is more like it) the main facade of the building, allowing pedestrians to “participate” in the structure from above, and ruminate on the origins of a system they participate in creating and utilizing.
Library Rising from the Sea
The Rising Library from Afar
The windows seen on the “slant” of the library were created to symbolize eyes, the window to the rest of the world, waking with the rising of the sun, allowing light on the spirit of mankind in their pursuit of knowledge and truth. The windows from the inside are covered in blue and green glass to symbolize the natural light from the sky. While the windows do not provide any significant amount of natural light, it does provide a relaxing ambiance through the use of color to alternately signify the sky and the sea, a meeting of the heavens and the earth colliding as the sun rises and retreats, opening and closing to those who pursue its riches inside.
The appearance from the Mediterranean is a glowing disk moving in subtle relation to the sky.
Approaching the Rising Library
Approaching the Library
It is noticeable in some of the pictures that there is an area for water to surround the library building. This is for natural rain water, but also for regularly running fountains. The library surrounded with water further emphasized the effect of the sun rising from the sea (as in looking across the Mediterranean to a sunrise). It is also stated that the water creates a “floating” of the building out of reach of the surroundings. As with the lighting of the complex at night, diminishing funds have eliminated the continuous flow of water that would ordinarily surround the complex.
Another View Approaching the Rising Library
Main Entrance to the Library
Ismail Serageldin in his book on the library, notes that even the discreet entrance of the Bibliotheca recalls the traditions of Mamluk Cairo, the entering of large and beautiful buildings through discreet and/or broken entrances that does not reveal the full size or splendor of the architecture.
*Ismail Serageldin was recently nominated into the American Academy of Arts and Sciences. A great achievement for Dr. Serageldin, and the Bibliotheca.
Main Entrance to the Library
Staff Entrance to the Bibliotheca
Approaching the Main Entrance from South
The Conference Center, located just across from the Main Entrance to the Library, is a place where many conferences take place in addition to lectures and some concerts. There is also an auditorium inside the main library, but the conference center allows for more formal affairs to take place. Just last week there was a week-long BioVision conference on sustainability, health care and the environment. I also attended a lecture on art in the Coptic Monasteries.
The Conference Center Across from the Main Entrance
Conference Center, Library, Plaza from Above
Planetarium and Conference Center
View of the Plaza in front of the Staff Entrance
The Planetarium acts as a sphere that orbits in tandem with the rising sun. The orb has an entrance accessible via a stairway that leads underground, giving the entrance a sci-fi, subterranean feel of entering another world, similar, I would say, to the feeling of entering the catacombs. The other-worldly feel is confirmed by the interior space and the displays/shows that confirm that feeling of transport to another world. The mobility and interaction of the complex is confirmed by placement of the planetarium within proximity to the conference center and the rising library. In other words, the complex is interactive, calling for visitors to “negotiate” the space.
View of the Planetarium and the Mediterranean Sea
A View of the Plaza and Planetarium from Above
The library complex is located right off of the Corniche, the main thoroughfare that follows the Mediterranean Sea the entire length of the city. The plaza of the library is also covered with sculptures donated to the library through the ongoing resident artist program that for years has been a staple of the Bibliotheca. To the side of the plaza, overlooking the Planetarium and the rising library, is a series of food shops, a couple of coffee shops and a bookstore, Diwan Books. All have a second floor seating area where visitors can order a coffee and look out at the plaza, the library and the Mediterranean. I often frequent the cafes to take in the spectacular view and play tourist for an hour or two, as I sip on my espresso and marvel at the complexity and integrity of the facility.
A View of the Plaza in Front of the Bibliotheca
A View of the Mediterranean from the Library Plaza
The Inside
The Arts Library is located on B3, or the third Basement. There is also another part of the 3rd Basement that extends beyond the Arts library. The third floor also houses the religion collection and a computer lab used for electronic resource instruction. I used the electronic resource classroom once to share resources in the Arts. It took me a while to really find my way around the whole Bibliotheca.
Labeling the Floors
Looking up to the Rising Floors
It might not be entirely apparent by looking at my pictures, but the interior levels create a tiered effect that seems to replicate the exterior of the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut. Many of the architectural features play on the traditions of Egyptian sculpture and architecture, including the use of different types of stone from the region in producing a desired affect inside the library.
Intricate Details on the Rising Floors
Some of the thin concrete columns that flower outward near the top recall the hypostyle temples of Luxor, but also recall the “flowering” of knowledge while paying tribute to the papyrus theme evident in ancient Egyptian architecture. The thin columns also blossom into what appears like Islamic arches (not visible in the pictures), combining Pharaonic columns and Islamic arches, a combination of architectural traits evident throughout the library. In any case, the forms are simple, merging the past, the present and the future in a hybrid design.
Staircase from the Basement to Upper Floors
The staircases that lead to the first, or main, floor are royal in their appearance. It showcases the Queen Hatshepsut feel of royalty that presides over all knowledge.
Two Floating Seminar Rooms Linked by Bridges
Open Space on Lower Floor
Study Space Against the Intricate Shape of the Library
Periodical Reading Room
One of Many Exhibitions Throughout the Library
Print Machines on B1
Old Printing Press
Looking at the Wall from the Maps Library
The black granite seen on the walls surrounding the staircases is a special granite imported from Zimbabwe. It is said to be of particularly strong character. Also notable in a few of the pictures is an oxidized brass paneling that naturally reduces noise. In some locations there is a green wall covering. The covering is a plastic made in Austria. It gives a sheen, finished granite/marble appearance in line with the finished look of the rest of the interior. The green plastic is strategically placed to offer additional coloring, mimicking the green light in the “eyelash” design of the ceiling windows. The oxidized brass paneling can be seen behind the reference desk in the Arts library, while the green stone walls are quite obvious in a number of pictures. The green walls also recall the water of the Mediterranean, which most days appears to be the color of absinthe.
Looking up from Basement Floor Number 4
From the Maps and Periodical Library
While there seems to be a thought that there is not much criticism of the library architecture, I am somewhat critical of the space. The wood flooring throughout the library is not conducive to the type of quiet comfort one might expect from a library. I am also not a fan of four (4) basement floors, eliminating the presence of windows, and thus, a connection with nature and the natural world. While Dr. Serageldin commented that one of the few criticisms of the building is the failed opportunity for applying solar panels to the roof, the space in the middle parts of the library is perhaps not utilized as well as it could be.
The Arts Library
Reading Reference Room in the Arts Library
Reading Reference Room in the Arts Library
I love the picture of the Reference Desk in the Arts Library. The desk is always ridiculously busy, especially with students from the University. I love the picture of Oum Kalthum, the feisty and powerful Egyptian singer with a voice to match. The poster is symbolic of the Arts library, a feisty and well performed machine that keeps rolling out a distinguished model of service and programming. Typically there is a poster to the side of the reference desk outlining the monthly film program (slightly visible in the picture). There is a film showing every Thursday at 1:00, centered around a different monthly theme. There are a number of exhibit cases that normally showcase a an exhibit within the Arts library. The cases have been clustered to the right of the reference desk for months, eagerly awaiting movement so that staff can fill the cases with meaningful exhibits to accompany the grandeur of the library.
Reference Desk in the Arts Library
Arts Periodicals
On a number of occasions I have worked in the Arts reading room. I get better Internet connection in the reading room and have learned to appreciate being surrounded by the hum of students entering and departing the space. The wooden seats, however, are ridiculously uncomfortable. God forbid you should take a call on your cell phone. Even as an “official” employee of the library, I was almost thrown out of the library for taking a call – from the director of the Arts Library, no less!
Reading Room in the Arts Library
The Arts Library
The number of books in the Arts library is impressive. I can’t remember the last time I saw this many art related items in one place. I did not bring many books with me for teaching. Thankfully, I was able to find most of what I needed in the stacks.
Stacks inside the Arts Library
I happen to love the massive concrete columns in the library, though I can’t really articulate why. The massive columns only appear in some areas, the Arts library is one of them. I guess it gives the space a sense of grandeur while combining the modern with the traditional in one form. I also love the number of sculptures and displays scattered throughout the library. I am constantly “interacting” with the library. It keeps the mind active and the body moving in and around the library: a place that should never be passive – in theory, anyway.
The Arts Library
Study Space and Courtyard from the Arts Library
This is one of the programming rooms used for talks and readings. There are about four (4) proper lecture rooms. The perimeter of the Arts library has private viewing rooms for students to watch films or meet for group study.
Theater Room inside the Library
The building and complex are certainly worthy of the 2004 Aga Khan architectural award, as the structure is brilliantly unique. Some details of all brilliant architecture, however, are usually overlooked in favor of the splendor of the overall design. The network of elevators and stairs, for example, are very efficient when trying to get from one location to another. The presence of one bathroom on the bottom floor of the library for an entire building of patrons is comical, and in walking the network of stairways on the interior of the building, there is an external opening on conjoining floors that could cause someone to get their whole leg trapped or break a foot while climbing the stairways. Because of the disk structure to the building, everything is created in a hierarchical scheme that expands or eliminates space based on the floor in which the collection presides. This means that if the structure was not built on a 16 degree angle, the space on each floor would be equal, and allow for a more appropriate apportioning of space for expanding collections. I imagine what the space might look like if each floor was equal in size from bottom to top. After I think about it, though, I disagree with my other self and feel that the Bibliotheca as it stands is remarkably unique. All practicalities aside, I could argue the faults of any structure. For its sheer brilliance and monumentality, the Bibliotheca really is a beautiful sight to behold. I am quite fortunate to have entered the library nearly everyday for almost 6 months. And I agree with other comments that the Bibliotheca is like a living museum in which scholars are able to actively interact through the wealth of resources and exhibits that, like the architecture, create a continual dialogue. As long as the complex keeps us talking and searching, how can we argue with the end result?
Sculpture in the main entrance of the Bibliotheca
Interestingly, the library complex is a merging of architectural forms from the past, a merging of classical Egyptian and Greek ideas about learning, astronomy, space, and the intricate workings that create an integrated union between men and women of learning, the universe that surrounds them and that keeps them curious and engaged. This is a resolution of my criticism above (continual engagement)
Here are some further details for all those interested. There is so much to write about the space, and the experience of the library, but I am forced to confine my observations. Here is a link to Snøhetta, the Norwegian architectural firm’s Account of the Building.
It is also useful to read the works of the director, Ismail Serageldin (still director despite recent calls that he be fired).
“A Landmark Building: Reflections on the Architecture of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.” Bibliotheca Alexandrina Publication, 2006.
We are nearing the end of our 5-month stay in Alexandria, Egypt. I am ambivalent about this. It’s been exciting and frustrating for me living in this country. There have probably been more good days than bad, but each day has its share of frustrating moments. For one thing, just getting around is difficult, especially with two young children. There are few decent sidewalks to walk on, and I refuse to take the kids in taxis in Alex, because most do not have functioning seatbelts. We take the tram most places, but that has its limitations. So I feel stuck many days. We go out daily despite this, but it’s not easy. I have to be creative in how we manage our days, not that that’s a bad thing.
An average day for me and the kids might go something like this. We wake around 7:00 a.m., plus or minus an hour. Luke and Maya will watch something on the Ipad, or cartoons in Arabic. I only recently found a channel with Arabic cartoons on all day long. I rationalize letting them watch it by saying it’s educational; they are learning Arabic. I get some coffee and start a load of laundry. The washing machines are small, and each cycle takes about 2 hours to complete. We eat breakfast around 8:00 a.m. We get dressed and then, with any luck, the kids play together nicely for the next hour while I get ready. Luke and Maya have been learning to play together since we’ve been here. They are each other’s only consistent playmates. Luke gets a little bossy at times, and Maya is prone to shrieking, but, as long as I am not in the room, they play well together for up to two hours at a time. When the laundry is complete, I throw all the socks and underwear in the dryer and hang everything else on a drying rack. The dryer is not very useful, and it often takes about 3 hours to dry a small load of socks and underwear, but it means that I do not have to hang up a dozen pairs of tiny socks with a clothespin each. Once we’re ready, I have to figure out what to do with the kids.
The kids need to run around and burn off energy, but it’s tricky figuring out where they can do that. There are few public playgrounds in Egypt. Most of them are part of a restaurant or sporting club, which means you pay to use them. We can walk the half mile to the corniche, the walkway along the Mediterranean, and then I can let them run along there. We do that a few times a week, but as the weather improves, there are more people out and about. We get stopped and stared at constantly, because we are foreigners. I’ve heard that Alexandria used to be comprised of about 40% foreigners, but that is no longer the case. Maya’s bright blonde hair is always a targeted attraction among Egyptians. At first we were amenable to stopping and letting people take photos or kiss her and Luke on the cheeks. Now I find it annoying and akin to harassment. I walk looking straight ahead and ignore all calls for attention. The primary way Egyptians get your attention is to make a hissing noise, like Americans make in calling a cat. It’s become pretty easy for me to ignore. There are also hoards of teenagers hanging out on the beaches. It seems that they have nothing else to do, so they swim in their underwear and generally cause trouble. There seem to be territory disputes among them, and I frequently see boys throwing rocks or bottles at each other, tossing their belongings into the sea, or shoving each other. It is uncomfortable for me to walk past these “gangs” of boys, who will shout out “Hellooo. Where are you from?” or “What is your name?”. I ignore it all and walk briskly with the kids in tow. I have avoided the sexual harassment that many of my American friends have encountered. I have also heard that one purpose of Egyptian women covering themselves with a niqab (a face veil) is in part to avoid harassment and the shame that comes with it. That is just one aspect of a very disputed topic. There are also plenty of friendly, concerned Egyptians that I encounter in daily life, too. It’s just that the obnoxious ones tend to stick out.
The kids definitely act as a deterrent. Luke and Maya garner lots of smiles and free stuff when we are out and about. At the pharmacy, they’ll each walk out with a piece of candy; at the local market, Maya will leave with a free yogurt; on the tram, they’ll receive small packs of cookies, gum or juice boxes. When we return to the States, they’ll wonder why no one is paying attention to them. Also, forget about lessons in not talking to strangers. There is always someone trying to get them to smile or give them a high five. On the tram, I expect them to sit or stand still and keep their hands to themselves. I know that’s not realistic, but it’s even less so when there is a man or woman trying to get them to smile or teasing them by grabbing the tram ticket out of their hands. I appreciate how much Egyptians like kids, but then I’m left to deal with two giggly, rambunctious kids who no longer want to sit still for the remainder of the 30-minute trip. I suppose that some days I just want to be left alone and to go about our business without attracting so much attention, and that’s almost impossible for us to do. Even when we sit on the beach, there is an attendant watching over us. In the stores, we are followed. I think people want to be helpful, but I just want some privacy and quiet time to myself.
There are plenty of positive things we have experienced here. We have had some quality family time, and this is especially important after the stress resulting from Zach losing both of his parents in the last year. Temporarily living in Egypt is financially advantageous for us, since the cost of living is low, at least by American standards. I know it is not for the majority of Egyptians who struggle to feed their families. We have had an inside look at another culture, and we are all learning some Arabic. I will have gotten through the alphabet by the time we leave here and have learned some basic greetings and expressions. Zach is farther along than me, having studied it in the States for years and having lived in Saudi Arabia as a child. The kids, especially Luke, have picked up some expressions and inflections of the language. We have met some wonderful people, Egyptian and American, that we hope to stay in touch with. Finally, we are off to see the Pyramids this weekend, then we’ll officially be able to say that we’ve “done Egypt”.
On Thursday May 3rd Fulbrighters met in Cairo with faculty and students from Cairo University for a dialogue on politics and economics. The talk gave both Americans and Egyptians a chance to address questions about one another’s political and economic system. The venue allowed the two groups to come together through dialogue and to understand cross-cultural perspectives surrounding what has proved to be a busy and contentious year for Egypt. The dialogue was moderated by Dr. Reham Bahi (a Boston educated PhD who considers herself a hard-core Red Sox fan!) who moved our group conversation into two smaller group discussions, an intimate setting for a two hour conversation.
The Fulbrighters gathered in front of the auditorium where Barack Obama gave his “Salam wa Aleikum” speech to the people of Egypt a few years ago.
Fulbrighters at Cairo University
While the first part of the conversation began with a bit of clarification about the US political system, primarily the role of religion in politics, and the theoretical separation of Church and State, the conversation quickly moved to questions about the Egyptian revolution. Many of the Americans were eager to know what was next for the revolution. Americans wanted to know what the goals are of the revolution and the elections, since they are not discussed much in public. One response indicated that there are many goals, but they are hard to articulate without a proper constitution, a president, and with the continued presence of SCAF (the military rule) creating bloodshed every month (SEE Port Said soccer fatality and last week’s bloodshed during the Abbasiya protests).
Dr. Reham Bahi, Moderator
One American discussed what he perceived as a leadership vacuum during the revolution. The Egyptian response was interesting. The Egyptians indicated that the idea of a leader is something of a western idea. The Egyptians have had their fare share of run-ins with “leaders”, military rulers who have demoralized the country and led Egypt astray through false promises. One of the most intriguing points made about the Egyptian revolution is the idea that it was/is realized as the work of the community, the collective Egyptian conscience seeking change, predominantly spearheaded by the Egyptian youth. The idea of group protest and revolution is that it becomes a communal effort of shared ideals in facilitating a change, not the manipulation of a select few. The communal precipitation, as was pointed out by our Egyptian colleagues, is an idea that is inherently realized in the way communities are set-up in Egypt. There is more a of a sense of community, or standing together to care for one another and watch for one another’s safety. This is apparent in the geography and planning of the cities and towns of Egypt, built around old communities of families and friends who share similar values and goals. This idea is different from the US notion of separate households who view themselves as separate from the rest of the community. This whole idea, as explained by Hatem, one of the more vocal participants in the group, gave me a new perspective on the Egyptian revolution and the future of Egypt. Also of interest is the idea that leadership will most likely take shape after the election. Yasmin, another enlightening voice among the group, drew parallels between the Egyptian revolution to both the American revolution and to the civil rights movement.
One of the final points that really resonated with me was the statement that had there been a leader of the revolution, Mubarek would have likely assassinated that person. And, what we might not realize, is that there are currently many vocal advocates for change, “leaders” of the revolution, slowly but surely establishing their voice with the ebb and flow of change. What is clear is that the revolution belongs to the Egyptian people, and the intellectual community in Egypt will do everything they can to see the Egyptian people into the future.
Some other topics of discussion included:
• The role of Egyptian youth in the January 25 revolution and their importance in shaping Egypt’s future
• The 2012 Egyptian Presidential Elections: hopes, expectations and challenges
• Cultural misconceptions and how to bridge the cultural divide between Egypt and the U.S.
• The development of political systems in the U.S. and Egypt
• Social and cultural transformations in Egypt and the U.S. over the past decade
Egyptian Students Talking Politics
Some final points about the talk I found interesting:
The Egyptians wondered why the Obama administration was not more vocal in condemning the Port Said attacks and last week’s Abbasiya violence. Does the US have an obligation to intervene?
The students at Cairo University talked about a vacuum in getting credible information about the revolution, politics and the economy. Youth are seeking out other means of information such as Social Media, but they realize the limitations of such sources. The “older” generations who only read newspapers and watch traditional TV news ask: “So you got your information from Facebook. Where did that information on Facebook come from?”
Finally, it is always humbling listening to colleagues in Egypt speak so passionately about their country, and their personal and collective ambitions. Two of the students said they plan on heading to Law school in the US, while almost everyone in the room had studied for at least a semester at a university in the US. Perhaps a close alliance between students in the US and in Egypt will be created and fostered more closely in the near future.
Last weekend I went with some Fulbrighters, one of whom is a sculptor, to a foundry on the outskirts of Alexandria. The foundry was created by a professor at the Faculty of Arts at the University of Alexandria, Kareem Kaddal. I have spent time with Kareem before when one of the Fulbrighters, Erik Blome, visited Alexandria to give a talk on bronze casting. I learned then that Kareem is a sculptor and that he created a foundry in Borg al Arab, the town where one of the three airports is located. Kareem kept inviting us to his foundry, an opportunity I was finally able to accept over the weekend. A foundry is a place that produces metal castings by melting metals (bronze) into liquid form. The hot liquid is then poured into molds, left to cool, then opened as a finished product, or used to weld into larger pieces. It was quite an experience to see a group of Egyptians working together throwing bronze scraps into a fiery metal pot and waiting for the liquid to form. The preparations were quite extraordinary. It is part of a process that is quite laborious and that few have seen. I did not see the creation of the molds, but I heard that is an intensive process. There is a lot of preparation in getting the tools together to pull the hot cauldron out of the fire; the sand that needs to be shoveled into place to support the cauldron; and the molds that need to be cleaned to prevent any contaminants. I am not well versed in the different types of metal, but I have been told that because of the addition of copper and zinc in some metals around the Middle East, the metal is known less as bronze and more as brass, a point one might want to consider if purchasing a sculpture from the area. One of the other interesting points about the foundry in Alexandria, is that some form of fuel is used to keep the pot at a high temperature for melting the bronze. What I was told is a bit unconventional, was the use of gasoline to fuel the melting. Foundries in the States, for example, use butane as a safe, clean and efficient source of melting.
Prepping Metal to be Melted
View of the Foundry from the Rear
Mixing the Bronze as it Melts
Mixing the Bronze as it Melts
Breaking down bronze to be melted
While watching the cauldron with the melting bronze, someone is constantly watching the pot as the mix is readying to be poured. Someone has to use a “sweeper”, a long metal rod with a handle on the end (looks like a back scratcher) to pull the impurities from the top of the melted bronze. Near the end of the process, small amounts of copper wire are added to “strengthen” the bronze. Depending on who is doing the “pouring”, small amounts of glass (in rather sizable chunks) are added. The glass attracts the impurities from the metal mix, and as it melts, is easy to pull from the cauldron. Finally, as the liquid nears the final stages before it is poured into the molds, a tiny piece of borax is added to the mix. Along with the clear glass that is melted, the borax helps sequester all the impurities so that they can easily be removed, as they float to the top of the liquid metal. For an overview of bronze, read Here.
A laborious task
Pulling the Liquid for Pouring
Taking the cauldron out to pour the bronze
Pouring Bronze into the Molds
Pouring the Bronze and Pushing Out Impurities
I managed to get a short clip of video with my camera. It is a little shaky. One of the workers in the foundry took a ladle-like spoon and pulled out some liquid before the cauldron was readied for the pour. He poured the liquid bronze into a small mold that was used to make an ornamental piece of bronze for one of the sculptures, presumably to be welded onto one of the larger pieces later. You can get a feel for the excitement and energy in the foundry, not to mention how hot and tiring it was to work there, but oh so exhilarating!
While we were waiting for the pour, we were visited by Michael Mokhles, a famous sculptor from Alexandria who has a number of public sculptures placed strategically around the city. He is well nown for his “concerto” pieces, featuring a man and a woman playing instruments such as a cello or a violin. Michael’s wife, Mona, is a jewelry and craft artist and stopped to work on some pendants and help with the fine molds for a candelabrum type piece. The piece she was working on was to be welded onto a larger bronze sculpture. Michael and Mona invited us to dinner after the pour, and the anticipation of waiting for the bronze to melt was eased at the thought of some homestyle Egyptian cooking. We did visit their house after the pour for a leisurely and tasty barbecue.
Part of the gang working on the pour
Waiting for the metal to melt. Working on molds.
The Mokhles were extremely gracious in allowing us into their home, a beautiful reproduction of a Coptic-style Church that was designed by Michael’s brother, a local architect. There were about four domed ceilings in the Coptic style, altering stucco with brick (a couple of the domes were made of stucco, while others were made only of brick). Mona invited us to look through her collection of necklaces, earrings and rings. I purchased a nice necklace with the help of all the other women in attendance. I was gone for about eleven hours between arriving at the foundry and the end of dinner at the Mohkles’ house. I figured I should get Angelique a little gift from Mona’s handcrafted collection, a fabulous collection of handmade jewelry, by the way.
A Mona Made Necklace
In case you haven’t heard how much I love eating, let me tell you about the food. The dinner consisted of Middle Eastern barbecued chicken, Macaroni casserole with meat (probably a ground lamb), and a salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, cilantro and onions, all from the garden in the backyard. There was enough to feed us three times over. Michael and Mona had more guests arrive to help eat it all, just in case I proved incapable of properly filling my hollow leg.
At dinner after work and play at the foundry
We followed dinner with some mint tea (the mint was picked fresh from the garden) and Qara’ ‘Asali (Baked Pumpkin), a concoction of pumpkin, milk, butter, flour and sugar that is baked to total sweetness and with no crust. We took our tea and dessert out back on the patio that was lined with an ‘L’ shaped couch overlooking the garden and a view of the Mediterranean. Who could disagree with the food or the view?
The day was hot – about 85 degrees – and we were eager to cool down somehow. We stopped at some Roman ruins on our way to the Mokhles house where we were told lies a series of Catacombs. This is a little known secret on the outskirts of Alexandria that no one visits. Perhaps no one knows it exists. When we finally made it to the Mokhles’ house, which is a kind of museum with the arts, crafts and sculptures everywhere (even the mother is a well known crochet!), we cooled down with some fresh mango juice and the satisfaction that we survived a grueling bronze cast.
Roman Ruins/Catacombs on the Way to Dinner with the Mokhles
Roman Ruins/Catacombs on the Way to Dinner with the Mokhles
Unearthing Alexandria (Library Egypt) 