Common Grounds

The past couple of days have been a bit strange. There seems to be a lot of excitement about the revolution, which translates to quite a few people acting out of character. I would say to a degree that there is a bit of group psychology at work, especially those who get swept up by the crowded demonstrations and do their very best to be absolutely loud and obnoxious. Even in some of the crowdedness and hustle of the past two days, I have had some delightful moments.

Egyptians, like many around the world, have a love affair with their cell phones. Kids of all ages have the latest Egyptian rock music as their ring tone, while a couple of times now I have heard some older gentlemen set their ring tones to the likes of Christopher Cross and Kenny G! It was a bit surreal when I heard one woman’s cell ring to the opening bars of Rimsky Korsakov’s Sheherezade. Sublime even. The music, combined with recollections of The Thousand and One Nights held a bit of irony, as I was watching a modern Egypt begin to celebrate the anniversary of its revolution, a moment that is clearly still undefined yet remains so hopeful for the Egyptians. Combined with the scene of riding a crowded and dirty tram with all its scents and commotion; the smell of sandalwood and sweat, primrose and fresh pita bread, and the dirt bath that is kicked up from the passing tram through the open window on a cool winter morning; for me, created a moment of clarity. I could only smile as I recalled the reasons why I journeyed to Egypt to adopt its culture — its stories and troubles and hopes, with my family, for the next six months. These are the types of moments that are almost impossible to communicate to others for why I travel and explore and learn another culture.

The story continued when I arrived at the library to partake of another cultural practice. As it is common to talk in groups over coffee, I went to coffee with three other colleagues to talk about affairs of the library. I ordered a double Turkish espresso (Kauwa Turkeya Mazduga – قهوة تركية مزدوجة). Wow! Turkish espresso is much stronger than the espresso I order at Starbucks. I did not see exactly how they made the espresso, but I noticed a little brass pot with grounds – many grounds! – getting roasted over a flame. I am not sure if I regret ordering a double, but I was nearly paralyzed in a caffeine daze for the next couple of hours. Needless to say, I now am the proud owner of a couple of extra chest hairs (thank you!) Our conversation about where to find the best Egyptian food and a need for me to explore other areas of town did not end over Turkish espresso. I learned a couple of hours later that it was required for me to attend coffee with the director, no buts about it. Instead of heading to the Brazilian coffee shop, I met the director and three of my colleagues at the Egyptian coffee house across from the library overlooking the Mediterranean. It was quite a spectacular view. We discussed the impending protests that had already begun to congregate outside of the library, and what to avoid tomorrow during the height of the anniversary celebrations. More importantly, we talked about programming for the library which turned into an interesting conversation about censorship. While my Arabic is still picking up steam, we spent a great deal of the conversation in German with a smattering of French and a generous helping of English. The switching of languages is common practice here, especially at the Bibliotheca, I’ve noticed, because so many pride themselves on their educational upbringing and cultural competence.

Instead of espresso, I had a cappuccino with a piece of chocolate. We had a nice exchange about what can or cannot be accomplished through censorship when presenting works in a public venue. Most of the discussion centered around how to proceed with programming that might be viewed as controversial to the public. For anyone who has worked with programming for the public knows, just about anything can be viewed as controversial. We found common ground between our efforts to maintain a balancing act with “concerned” and objecting patrons both in Egypt and the United States. Clearly there are so many similarities between the two cultures it is almost comical.

I left the library a little early as I was getting a little concerned over the size of the crowds starting to celebrate the holiday a little early. When I left the library I noticed that one end of the main street that intersects the University of Alexandria and the Bibliotheca was blocked with huge crowds of protestors. I was getting a little antsy as I made my way back to the tram. I was not overly concerned as I still stopped off at the bakery for a pound of date bars and a few pieces of fresh pita. Our friends, one of whom is a fellow Fulbrighter teaching at the University of Alexandria, brought us (the family) to a new restaurant around the corner for some fantastic pizza. Three large pizzas and drinks for everyone came to a whopping EGP 54.00 ($8.57!)

In case the day couldn’t get any better, I noticed an invitation from the American Cultural Center in Alexandria (the cultural arm of the US Embassy in Cairo) to meet with the Honorable Ruth Bader Ginsburg (US Supreme Court Justice) for a conversation. How awesome is that! So I feel like a little kid on my birthday. It’s not all cakes and ale, but for now I can have my pizza and coffee cheap and eat it too, or something like that.

Anniversary of the Revolution

We are coming on the anniversary of the revolution and it seems to have every one on edge in some way or another.   I was told by a colleague that as the revolution approaches, it might be a good time to avoid the major protest points of Cairo and Alexandria.  As I mentioned an interest in visiting Luxor or Aswan, I was told this week might be a good time to visit other areas in Egypt.   I have every intention of visiting Luxor before I leave Egypt, I just haven’t considered traveling down there until I get settled in Alex.  Luxor, for those of you keeping score, is in Upper Egypt, or the south of the country. Depending on who I ask, I may get a couple of different answers about whether I should leave Alex for a few days, or stick around.  This is mostly because no one really knows what will happen on January 25.  Everyone seems to think there will be major interruptions, while others think it is overblown, and I have nothing to worry about.  Quite frankly, I subscribe to the latter camp; I seem to think there is nothing to worry about.  Most businesses, including the library, will be closed on January 25.  Some have suggested that I not leave my flat, as others plan on staying inside to await the passing storm.

Everyone in the Arts and Multimedia library has been more than gracious and forthright in communicating details of developing events, what I will be doing here at the library, and articulating a timetable for getting things done. Most recently they have been explaining details about the bustling protests taking place at the library.  Ever since January 25, 2011, many people feel that every day should be a revolution.  Their place and stature within the library is a platform for turning everything upside down.  Many recent protests have communicated to administrators a desire for a pay raise, while others are solidarity protests, with the protesters in Tahrir Square and the spirit of the revolution itself.  Today, for example, marks the first meeting of the newly elected Egyptian Parliament, comprised entirely of the Muslim Brotherhood.  This is reason for protest for some at the library.  As a consequence, there is never a dull moment while living in Alexandria.  And while I keep thinking that I will have down time to catch up on some reading and generally enjoy acting as a tourist (I do from  time-to-time), there is always so much going on between the library, events with the Fulbright office and the US Embassy, and the schedule of the city that I am too pooped at night to want to do anything else.  Mind you, I am happy about this.

 

One example of the energy around the city comes from my ride in this morning when the tram I was on suddenly went out of service (ok, Sounds like the T in Boston, right?) was followed by a taxi driver crashing into the back of an SUV.  The newly working tram was stopped because of the accident.  And while I have never seen anyone come to blows (they have come close), the man who was in the accident with the taxi was screaming and began breaking the taxi’s headlights while his wife was trying to restrain him.  Three (3) men hopped off the tram to a) either exacerbate the situation, or b) help the situation.  I believe it was the former, since the crowd on the tram was shouting at the crowd that was assembled around the accident.  And as my colleagues remind me, “Egyptians are loud people to begin with.  When they are really loud, they are REALLY loud.”  Evidence of this was clear when I entered the library and heard demonstrators chanting in the stairwell as they marched around the library.  The Bibliotheca is a huge facility, so you can imagine how loud the crowds are when, chanting near the entrance of the library, I can hear the noise from three floors below and one thousand (1000) yards away from the window.

 

Among recent developments in the library, I have begun working on a a series of lectures.  I was asked to communicate the differences between librarians in the United States and Egypt, including a discussion about ethical standards, perceptions, roles, and professional development initiatives that would be helpful for staff at the BA.  This will be part of a series of workshops and lectures. I am also working on a film program and a series of art talks, which include a series of lectures on American landscape and genre painting, and American art in the early twentieth century.  I will also be giving workshops on a type of meta information literacy, exploring literacy beyond typical library resources.  There are guests invited from all over for these programs, among which is special invitation to the University of Alexandria and the museum and library staff.

 

I received an invitation from the Fulbright Office in conjunction with the US Embassy to meet in Cairo next week with the US Deputy Assistant Secretary for Academic Programs.  I just hope there is food at the reception!  As much of a pain as it can be going back and forth to Cairo, I am still eager to make the trip as often as possible, and I will most certainly accept the invitation.

 

I should mention as a final note that with my employee ID card I get a 25% discount at the library/museum store.  They not only have some great nick-nacks, but also a nice selection of historical books on the region that I could never find back home.  I took about twenty books with me for research and teaching while here with the intention that I was going to donate them to the library so I don’t have to lug them back with me.  Now I am thinking about purchasing just as many for the return journey.  It is difficult finding the full selection of Naguib Mahfouz books, for example.  In any case, I need to partake of the culture, and the art, the books and the music are a great way to do it.  Right now I am tapping into the rich collection of films to brush up on my Egyptian history and culture.  Who would have thought that much of the literature considers Egypt to be part of the Mediterranean, not the Middle East or Africa/North Africa to which it is otherwise commonly referred.